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Reveille96
Dodge Dakota
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7/29/2004
09:19:25

Subject: 4.7 mods
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ok i know most of you have answered this question a million times but here i go anyway. As far as engine mods go for the 4.7 what would you guys recommend as far as pcm flash/upgrade, throttlebody upgrade, cam upgrade, intake manifold upgrade, head upgrades,....ect...ect if its out there and i can put in my truck i would like to know about it.I am open to all suggestions,except for kenny-bell s/c i already did research on those and if i can't get the power out of my truck that I am looking for with the other mods then i will consider the s/c.



Reveille96
Dodge Dakota
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7/29/2004
09:21:30

RE: 4.7 mods
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oh yeah i neglected to mention that i have a 2000 4.7 QC 4x4



CThomp
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7/29/2004
09:41:08

RE: 4.7 mods
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krcperformance.com
socaldakotas.com
thefastman.com
truckperformance.com
rpmoutlet.com

Between all of these site they will have what you want. Its up to you how you want to spend you money.



rgathright
Dodge Dakota
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7/29/2004
11:52:39

RE: 4.7 mods
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My website is basically an answer to your question Reveille96 in a outlined format. If you can get over the unflashy content and read it you will become heavily educated.

http://www.reubengathright.com/2004DodgeDakota.html



Reveille96
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
09:40:35

RE: 4.7 mods
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thanks for the links. i found lots of parts to consider getting. Hopefully they will breath some life into my truck. It seems like it could use some. I'm not realy sure, but I would have thought that it would have had more power than what it does. What i mean is that i just figured that if i had the truck in 2nd and the rpms around 2.5 to 3 grand that if i punched it that the tires would spin at least just a little, but nada nothing all it does is grab and go. I'm not the kind of person that just goes around trying to spin off my tires, but it would be nice to know that i could if i chose to do so. I'm not much of a gear head and this is the only dakota that i have ever driven or ridden in for that matter so i have no basis for comparison on whether or not it is running the way that it is supposed to be or not.

2000 QC 4x4 4.7L 3.55's 5spd k&n intake 53k miles



CThomp
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7/30/2004
09:49:17

RE: 4.7 mods
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You might consider upgrading your gears. You have quite the heavey truck. Probably around 4600-4800lbs. With 3.55's its gonna be a bit of a slug. 4.10's will hurt your highway mileage a little but would probably help you alot. Also if you don't have an LSD you should get one. Auburn makes a good one.



Reveille96
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
10:00:28

RE: 4.7 mods
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yeah i was thinking about getting some different gears, but i don't know what size the axle is. nor am i sure if i change the gears in the back whether or not i would have to change the gears in the front as well. to me it would seem logical.



CThomp
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7/30/2004
10:47:11

RE: 4.7 mods
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Your gears in the front are your 4x4 gears. Thats a different animal. You more than likely have the 9.25" rear axle. There is a sticker in your glove box that will tell you what your axle is. Do you do much offroading?



Reveille96
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7/30/2004
11:06:15

RE: 4.7 mods
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not yet but that is going to be a future hobby of mine. at least as soon as i can unleash some more power from my truck. i believe that i do have an lsd, last time i had the truck servised i asked the mechancic and he should me how to check it and said that it was so i took heis word for it. I also live in vermont so 4x4 is a god send it the winter. since i do use 4x4 quite a bit in the would i need to change the 4x4 gears as well or would i be ok with just a gear swap in the back.



rgathright
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
11:06:51

RE: 4.7 mods
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Burnouts: my specialty!

First, if you have oversized tires (greater than 29 inches) you will not be able to do this easily because your tire ratio is to great! You could have an effective ratio in the 3.44 range with 31 or taller tires!

Secondly, if you have a 5 spd auto (I do not think so on a 2000) you will not be able to spin easily. The torque management systems on those auto's kills any chance of a good pedal stomp burnout!

Otherwise, you should be able to spin those tires if you: remove the clutch fan (for faster engine rev up) and change to a lightweight synthetic motor oil like Amsoil or Mobil 1 5w/30. Those oils also allow the engine to rev up quicker. The combination should give you a nice tire scratch with your 4x4. These mods are dangerous and could harm your engine if you do not know what you are doing.

I disagree with CThomp on the LSD, that would cause both tires to gain traction under a hard start, a no no for burnouts!



CThomp
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7/30/2004
12:24:13

RE: 4.7 mods
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I don't think burnouts are specifically what he's goin for though. I think he more just wants good launches. For good launches it only seems right that you would want both tires hooking together or at least close to it. An open dif would give you less traction.

I think his main need was more power.



ZenDak
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
12:51:19

RE: 4.7 mods
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even if he was wanting to do burnouts,,he would want an LSD unit back there. Otherwise he'll be doing a one-wheeled wonder burn out.



Duner
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
12:53:38

Fuel Rail Cooling
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rgathright - I took a look at your pages. Nice collection! I was taking a look at the fuel rail cooling pages. I see that you only saw 70°C at the fuel rail? I measured almost double that temp on mine before the fuel rail cooling system.

Here's why the fuel rail cooling system works:

Each 50°F temperature increase causes gasoline to expand about 3.5%, which of course means it's density changed by that much.

If ambient fuel temp is 100 degrees and the fuel rail at the end of the line is 300 degrees then the change in density would be 14%. That change would make the stock 19# injector act like a 16.5# injector. So basically.... on your engine, it's the same as having 19# injectors on 4 of the cylinders, 17.5# injectors on a couple of others and 16.5# injectors on the other two cylinders. Of course the O2 sensor is reading from all 8 cylinders and thinks that it's slightly lean because some of the cylinders are..... so it richens the mix. That makes one bank run more rich than it even needed to and the other is still lean. That change results in the sluggish performance. DC has made a small effort to try and correct this by putting O2 sensors on each bank separately. That way the PCM can try and cure some of the imbalance that's caused by the returnless system. In typical fashion they're tried to treat the symptom instead of curing the illness.

The whole purpose of the fuel rail cooling system is to balance the temps for all 8 injectors. If you can lower the fuel temps for all of the injectors and keep it even - that's even better!

My current fuel rail cooling system is tied into my air/water intercooler system for the turbo. Since I'm generating cold water while driving - there's no reason not to use it wherever it can provide benefit. My fuel rail temps generally hover in the 70°F to 80°F range during normal driving when the ambient temps are 100°F to 110°F and underhood temps are usually 160°F+.



rgathright
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7/30/2004
14:34:30

RE: 4.7 mods
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Duner: Can you get me some pictures of your setup? I am currently concerned about the amount of insulation to put on my fuel rails. If I cover them to much, I am worried I might over heat them while the cooling system is off.

I really think this system with the peltier is the way to go, but more notes on your system can really help.

Have you tried extending the cooling system along the metal fuel line about 8 inches before it reaches the rail T? There is a 4 to 5 inch section there could be chilled as well. :P





Duner
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7/30/2004
15:34:41

RE: 4.7 mods
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I'll see if I can snap some pics of it all over the weekend. My system cools the entire fuel rail with just 3/8" tubing and includes the section around the front between the two sides. I might be totally wrong - but I don't think the peltier will have enough capacity to cool it effectively. I don't think you can really overheat the fuel rails because the fuel will provide some measure of cooling. The main goal is to balance the temps between the two sides. My system runs continuously whenever the ignition switch is in the on position.



Reveille96
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
17:33:06

RE: 4.7 mods
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the tires on my truck are 235/75/r15's they are goodyear wrangler rt/s they are the same tires that came on the truck when i bought it about a year ago. burning my tires off every chance i get is not my hole plan but like i said it is kind of nice to be able to lay a nice sized patch to quite some of my friends who tend to frown on the fact that i own a dodge. the truck as it is right now has a hard time doing that unless the pavement is wet or there is some loose gravel on it. the tranny in my truck is a 5spd manual. i dont think that i would ever have it any other way. i guess that i kind of like the hole idea of being able to select exactly which gear my truck is in.
there is one thing about the truck that i do find unusual. i have had a problem with the truck stalling at times when i push in the clutch for a slightly extended period of time when coming to a stop. i don't have this problem when i shift down through the gears when coming to a stop. it is almost as if the truck wont hold idle. it doesnt do it all the time just on occations and then it will do it like two or three times in a row and then it wont do it for a while. i tried using fuel injector cleaner but that didn't solve the problem i have even tried using 93 octane as opposed to 87. i'm on my second tank of 93 octane now and it hasn't happened yet but then aagain when i first tried the injector cleaner i thought that solved the problem too. i have brought the truck to the dealership from which i bought it and they could not figure it out they said that since they was no error code and they could not dupplicat the problem that they could not help me until either the truck broke completely or showed an error code. niether of those options is one that i really like



GraphiteDak
GenIII
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7/30/2004
21:36:20

RE: 4.7 mods
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Well damn it.
Now I've got to go look under my hood at the fuel rails. I always thought "returnless" was stupid because of vapor lock. But never thought I could get an unbalanced fuel delivery to each bank of cylinders.

I've got a question tho. Why not just MAKE a return for the system?
If you just bled even a SMALL emount of fuel back to the tank via a restrictor, you would be moving fuel across the rails at a rate that would ASSURELY give even temps.

Are you also more interested in lowering the overall temp below what is in the fuel tank itself?

Just asking because now I'm thinking about this stuff. That info Duner posted was interesting too.
And I live down here where he does. It's hot as HECK right now!



01Motorsport
Dodge Dakota
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7/31/2004
17:28:00

RE: 4.7 mods
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Hey, Duner! Have you run a sub-12 second quarter yet?



CThomp
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7/31/2004
22:10:01

RE: 4.7 mods
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Reveille96:

I have know idea of what to make of your idling issues. Some of the other guys might be able to make something of it. Everything else about your truck is a good starting point. But remember that it is heavy. What you need is torque. The HO cams will provide that. II'd go ahead and get the HO or '03 intake just so you don't have to mess with it down the road. See how those work out for you and then build from there.




Reveille97
Dodge Dakota
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8/02/2004
08:26:47

RE: 4.7 mods
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thanks for the advice. also i was wondering if there was any big difference between the krc 206 cams and the ho cams, and of the two manifolds the ho and the '03 which one of those do you think would be better if there is any difference at all. one more thing if i do change the rear gears to 4.10s would i have to change my 4x4 gearing up front since i do use four wheel drive quite often in the winter time. it is kind of a necessity around here especially if you plan on traveling on back roads that don't get plowed that often.



rgathright
Dodge Dakota
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8/02/2004
10:25:45

RE: 4.7 mods
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Reveille96: This may sound crazy... do not do it unless someone else backs me up... but why not reset your PCM? Your truck may be having problems reading your mods (have no clue what else you have). I found it had to be done when I put my exhaust and air filter in.



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