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big_torque Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/09/2002 16:51:20
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Subject: "bump steer" IP: Logged
Message: You guys with R/Ts ever get that "bump steer" ? You know when you hit a bump (especially when taking a curve) and the truck yanks to the side and snaps back. I was taking an on-ramp. It was down hill slightly with a little curve , doing about 65 and accelerating and I hit a small bump and it scared the crap outta me. I thought I was gonna lose it. Why does this happen and how can it be tamed ? Shocks ? Tires ?
I love the sporty suspension of my reg. cab R/T , but I think the ride is too bouncy.
Any input welcome , Thanks !
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Duner Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/09/2002 16:57:23
| Shocks and different alignment specs IP: Logged
Message: Shocks and more negative camber. The guys with the Hotchkis system that had the alignment done to the Hotchkis specs report that bump steer is greatly improved. They also report that the Bilsteins that are valved to Hotchkis specs make a huge difference also.
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big_torque Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/09/2002 17:27:42
| RE: IP: Logged
Message: Thanks for the info , Duner. Don`t know if I wanna put lotta $ into suspension. Rather spend it on motor. I may look into Bilsteins. Thanks again , man.
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Jon Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/09/2002 20:31:53
| RE: IP: Logged
Message: Get a steering stabilizer like the guys put on their 4x4's. It's the best $25 i've ever spent on my truck. They are designed just for that purpose - to eliminate bump steer. It is basically a shock absorber, one end mounts to the tie rod, the other to the frame. It made my lifted F-150 handle like a car, and my Dak handle like a corvette...almost.
-Jon
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92dakotahd GenII
9/10/2002 00:16:29
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Message: I alway figured what you guys were referring to was actually the rear end skippin sideways a bit.
K&N, '01 wheels, Window Tint, Harley-Davidson badging, red underbody kit, ext. Window covers, Harley-Davidson mudflaps, custom cat-back exhaust, head/taillight covers, ventshades side and rear, ram air on the way. Autolite 3923s, 180 T-Stat
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REKER *GenIII*
9/10/2002 08:27:41
| RE: IP: Logged
Message: Jon.. where did u get that Steering Stabilizer from??... I need to get one also. Are they hard to install??.. doesnt sound like it.
ROB aka REKER
"Gas, Grass or Ass....... NOBODY Rides for Free!!"
2000 Intense Blue Club Cab fully loaded 4.7L V8 Auto 4X4 3.55 Gears Mods: Homebrew Grille and Cd Player.. more to come!!!!
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Big Blue QC GenIII
9/10/2002 14:59:06
| RE: IP: Logged
Message: My 4x4 is guilty of the same problem. I have accustomed myself to really pay attention to upcoming road conditions so action can be taken to avoid it or brace for it.
2002 QC 4x4 Sport Plus, 4.7L, auto, Patriot Blue, Tire & Handling group, Heavy Duty Service group, Leer cap w/out windows, Mopar Step bars and roof rack, Rhino liner in bed and on step bars, Pace Edwards Power Tailgate lock 3.55 rear, 4-wheel anti-lock brakes, all possible fluids are AMSOIL
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Canucker Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/10/2002 15:58:18
| RE: IP: Logged
Message: Duner: wouldn't it need a Castor adjustmen, not Camber?? I could be wrong, but ...
castor is the angle of the king pin relative to the ground, camber is the angle of the tire relative to the ground ... with an aggressive castor angle, when you turn your tire, it has a tendency to lift up (slightly) the corner of the truck - called jacking force I think. In response, the truck wants to sit back down and the only way to do that is to straighten the wheels. This is why if you turn the wheel and let go, it will tend to straighten back out as you drive forward.
The more the castor angle, the stabler the vehicle feels, but the more susceptable to things like bump steer it is. As the castor angle approaches zero, the vehicle will tend to float, or feel really finicky, but the less scrub there will be on the tires in a corner. ... so there's a fine balance to find just the right point. OEM vehicles tend to err on the side of caution and go with a really aggressive castor angle, and I think the Dakota may have gone a little overboard.
The only way to change it would be to get new A-arms with pick-up points to the ball-joints closer to vertical.
Did any of that make any sense!???!? Its been a while since I've dillied around with vehicle dynamics so I may be a little rusty and somewhat inaccurate with my explaination.
The easiest thing to do would be to just suck it up and get a steering stabilizer.
l8r!
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Duner Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/10/2002 16:22:52
| RE: IP: Logged
Message: Quite a few of the R/T guys have reported that bump steer greatly improved after adding negative camber to their front tires (tires leaned in slightly at the top).... with no changes to the caster angle.
I by no means have any special knowledge of front end geometry.... just repeating what I've read.
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bernd *GenIII*
9/10/2002 16:26:34
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Message: I agree with Duner...the custom alingment specs (not only from Hotchkis) work very well to cure the problem.
Shocks are also another option: KYB MonoMax & Bilstein are the top two.
Easy alignment "mods":
(1) Add 1/2 degree more negative Camber to existing specs
(2) Add up to 1 degree more positive caster to existing specs
(3) Keep the toe at NO MORE than 1/8" IN.
1997 Dodge Dakota SLT - V6 Supercharged/Intercooled @ 10# w/Nitrous 14.55 @ 96.01mph
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Canucker Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/10/2002 17:34:21
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Message: I'm no expert by any means either ... I was just going on what sketchy knowledge I could remember.
I guess if it works, it works. and don't mess with it. :)
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Jon Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
9/10/2002 17:54:36
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Message: I am slightly an expert on alignment and suspensions (ASE certified and Toyota/Lexus factory certified if that counts).
Usually for better handling on corners you want negative camber, sometimes up to 3 degrees on a race car, but that will destroy your tires on a street vehicle.
Adjusting the caster more positive will also help with turn-in but too much will cause steering stability and steering wheel return problems. On a street vehicle you don't want to mess with alignment too much unless you can afford new tires every 5K miles.
I would recommend keeping the alignment in factory specs (but set the camber as far negative as possible within those specs).
I would also get a steering stabilizer, good shocks, polyurethane bushings, etc. Remember that it's a truck not a sports car so try and do your racing on straightaways :)
I got my steering stabilizer at Truckperformance.com I think they carry them for up to 1999 Daks, i'm sure you can find them for the newer models as well somewhere online. Takes about 10 minutes to install and requires no knowledge of auto mechanics.
-Jon
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