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Dakota Performance
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6/24/2004
11:28:46

Subject: complete trans flush
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just flushed the trans today, installed a replacement pan with drain plug in it so it will be easier to drain next time (you could also use a hand pump and put a tube down the drain tube and empty the pan that way also

i already had a T mainfold put on for the feed line going to the radiator so i could run a trans temp gauge so it was easy to just disconnect the sender and put a clear tube on it and run it to a bucket to flush the tranny

you need to have someone in the truck to start the engine and put it in gear so the fluid will flow to the cooler, then just watch as you fill a quart bottle or better yet mark off a quart of fluid on a larger bottle, it comes out at a good rate but not so fast you take out more than a quart at a time, so you have plenty of time to yell to the person in the truck to shut the engine off

pump out a quart at a time and pour in a quart after then just watch for the color change in the fluid, it will be obvious when the color changes, my fluid was a dark brown coming out

the pan held exactly 6 quarts, total capacity is 10 quarts and i probably used an extra quart just making sure i got as much out as i could

allen wrench on the trans filter by the way, gasket is reusable



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6/24/2004
12:43:58

complete transmission flush --- Amsoil ATF Amzoil
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Helpful advice for the DIY'er ...

Changing Your Transmission Fluid in 12 EASY Steps:

1. Make sure the fluid is warm. Warm up your Dakota so the transmission is at normal operating temperature. Pull the transmission dipstick. Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.

2. Drain the fluid by loosening the pan. Select the correct filter replacement based on pan shape and prepare a large pan to catch the fluid. Then loosen each pan bolt a turn or two and loosen one corner more than rest. Drain mostly from this corner.

3. Finish removing the pan and any gasket material from the pan or case. Avoid scratching the metal and make sure the pan’s gasket surface isn’t bent or distorted.

4. Remove the old filter. Most transmission filters are held in place with a bolt or two, but some are held by a clip. Be careful to include O-Rings or other seals.

5. Install a new filter. Use the clips or bolts from the old filter. Be sure O-Rings, etc. are in place. If the filter has a long intake neck, gently push the neck into place without unseating the O-Ring.

6. Clean the pan thoroughly. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Clean the pan with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue.

7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the gasket in place.

8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.

9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual or "AMSOIL Product Selection Guide,” using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.

10. If doing only a partial fluid replacement, skip to instruction 12 below. If doing a complete fluid replacement, follow the steps in instruction 11.

11. You now have replaced the fluid in the pan. To replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler also, follow these steps.

Step 1. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer or AMSOIL. Have this amount readily available.

Step 2. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. As you may not know which is the pressure side and which is the return side, have both directed so the stream of fluid will be directed toward a receptacle.

Step 3. With another person, be prepared to add ATF to the fill area as it is being pumped out of the oil cooler line.

Step 4. Start the engine, and as the old fluid is pumped out, add fresh fluid to the pan.

Step 5. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All fluids has now been changed.

12. Recheck the fluid level. With the truck on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission into different positions before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks.
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You probably can't get new ATF in as fast as the old ATF is pumping out ... so be ready to stop & restart the engine several times. It is really a two or three person job.
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How do I empty the transmission and torque converter completely?

All the "flushing machines" I've seen intercept the ATF being pumped out of the transmission throught the cooler lines and replace it with new ATF as the transmission idles normally. The same thing happens when doing the ATF replacement at home with hoses and buckets.

I have been informed that the "flushing machines" are NOT gentle, and the pressure from the inlet stirs what is in the bottom of the pan and it gets drawn in. I have been advised to NOT FLUSH ...but to drain, drop, change, fill.

I don't think it was possible to drain all of the oil out of an automatic transmission because of the large amount left in the torque converter. On some vehicles, this can amount to almost half the total quantity. Often the pan holds less than half the ATF. You probably can't get new ATF in as fast as the old ATF is pumping out ... so be ready to stop & restart the engine several times.

To do a complete change, you would need to do a flush and fill through the cooler lines, either with a "flushing machine" or the way my Uncles did it ........ clamping a hose on the "out" line on the cooler and letting that run into a bucket, and then refilling the tranny simultaneously with engine idling. You could then let it cool, drain and drop the pan, change filter, reinstall pan and top up with oil just drained.

I have also been told that the "flush machines" cause a lot of transmissions to "go bad" shortly after the flush. I think that some of the machines actually have a "cleaning fluid" that they run through the transmission. Maybe that fluid is the cause.

*** Note: I am NOT a Transmission Expert. I am simply adding what I hope to be helpful information based on conversations with other people.
__________________________________________________



Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com

AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products



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